Wednesday, August 2nd 2017
After a day and a half it was already time to leave Denali National Park and Preserve behind and head into the arctic. I was sad to leave behind the Alaska Range, I couldn’t imagine seeing anything more beautiful but it was time to start our journey up to Deadhorse. I was pretty excited to drive the Dalton Highway, working at then end of it I had heard so many things about it’s beauty, finally I was going to see it for myself.
Anna and I were once again lucky enough to be able to take a tour with Northern Alaska Tour Company from Fairbanks up to Deadhorse camp. On a good day, with no stops and no construction the drive from fairbanks to deadhorse is nearly 16 hours. The tour breaks the drive up into 2 days, splitting the 495 mile journey up into 2 parts Coldfoot Camp being the halfway point.
On the Road Again
The tour left fairbanks at 7 am, as with anywhere in Alaska one minute you’re in town and the next you’re surrounded by wilderness. We turned off onto the Dalton highway and 5 minutes later civilation had faded away.
The first part of it was really woodsy, on both sides of the road was a neverending sea of pine trees. Not the monstrous pine trees found back home in the northeast, these were skinny densely packed pine trees. If you have a good eye and a little luck you may see a moose or even a black bear amungst the trees, we did not see either unfortunately.
Our first stop of the day was at Wildwood General Store, about 100 miles north of Fairbanks. The Wildwood General Store is the picture perfect general store, it transports you back in time when 7/11s weren’t on every corner and you actually had to read the newspaper to know what was going on in the world.
For lunch we stopped at the Yukon River Camp, but first we had to cross over one of the sketchiest bridges I’ve ever seen. To think tractor trailors went over it was mind boggling. Only 1 vehicle was allowed on it at a time, we pretty much rolled over the bridge never going more than 10 miles an hour. As soon as the vans full weight was on the bridge you felt the whole thing sag, how was this safe?!
Yukon River Camp is also owned and operated by Northern Alaska Tour Company, so I met more of my fellow coworkers. Everyone who worked for NATC was so friendly and seemed genuinely happy in their jobs it was so refreshing.
We stopped at some really picturesque spots along the way. The chance to get up and walk around was a welcome relief from being cramped up in the van. Luckily there were only 5 of us on the tour so there was a little bit more space than there would be on a full tour.
Past the Arctic Circle
Just before reaching Coldfoot, maybe a half hour or so south we passed throuh the arctic circle. Whuch I had been living north of the Arctic for some time now it was still exciting to pass over the line.
We made it to Coldfoot Camp about 6 pm, making it a full 11 hours in the van with stops. Across the Dalton there in a Ranger Station which does have different presentations along with some info on the Brooks Range. They can also help advise you on hikes in the area so definitely check it out if you plan on doing any hiking around Coldfoot.
Coldfoot is right in the midst of the Brooks Range, Alaska’s nothernmost mountain range. The Brooks Range is some of the least traveled parts of Alaska. With the range being so remote and so far north few traveler or hikers make it there.
If you’re looking to visit Gatez of the Arctic National park, this is one of the starting points. Gates of the Arctic is one of the least visited National Parks, there are no roads leading to it you either have to hike in or fly in. From Coldfoot its a 98 mile trek to Gates of the Arctic, no trails. Sounds like quite the daunting task if you ask me, a directionally challenged person but talking to people who have done it it sounds like an incredible experience.
Coldfoot has all the amenities you would need in the remote wilderness, you can choose between camping or lodging in a basic work camp style room. The rooms do have their own showers which is a huge plus if you ask me but the rooms are not cheap. There is a bar and a restaurant on site as well as a gas station and a small mechanic shop.
Thursday, August 3rd
By the end of the day we would be back in Deadhorse, my home away from home. I was honestly kind of excited to go back, I really didn’t mind the arctic and if traveling with Anna had taught me anything it’s that I’m a solo traveler through and through. I like doing my own thing and making my own schedule. I am super grateful that she came up to visit me but we definitely don’t have the same traveling styles.
I was really excited to drive through Atigun pass everyone said it was beautiful, hell the owner of NATC named one of his dauhter Atigun so it must be pretty incredible. The clouds were really low and it was drizzling but I was hopeful that it would clear up as the day went on.
Wiseman
Our first stop of the day was just north of Coldfoot in Wiseman for a tour with Jack Reakoff. Jack Reakoff is easily the most interesting man I’ve ever met. He’s basically the mountain man, a real do it yourself type of guy. He’s the post master of Wiseman as well as the paster. He does all the work on his house, he grows most of his own food and hunts for meat. He seemed to know a little bit about everything, and really seemed to be interested in the science behind how it all worked. He would be super interesting to get to spend more time with.
Wiseman itself is a tiny little town, there’s a year-round population of around 20. Considering it is a full days drive from Fairbanks you do have to be pretty self sufficient to live there, there wont be any quick trips to the grocery store!
Off to Deadhorse
We stopped and ate lunch in Atigun Pass, it was quite stunning even with the thick layer of fog. I was a little disappointed not to see it in all it’s glory but out of all the days for it to rain this was probably the best one. At least the weather isn’t ruining any outdoor activites we had planned.
Shortly after Atigun Pass the Brooks range ends and the vast expanse of tundra unfolds before us. Somehow it seemed flatter after seeing the mountains. We pulled over and walked out into the tundra. The rain made the tundra extra spongy and little puddles gathered in the cracks. Our tour guide dug a small hole, 6 inches deep the ground was frozen solid. This was the end of summer in the tundra, this was a thawed as the ground was going to get yet it was barely thawed enough to plant a seed.
We had a bit more luck with the wildlife on day 2 of the drive. We saw a moose and a calf way off in the distance and we saw a grizzly bear running along the pipeline! The grizzly bear was super light colored almost blonde, really cool to see.
I don’t believe I had mentioned this before but the Dalton Highway runs next to the pipeline for the oilfield. The pipeline starts in Prudhoe Bay and ends in Valdez, that’s 800 miles. At times the pipeline is underground but so far north the ground is too frozen so it sticks out above the ground. It is the only sign of humanity along the road at most points.
Back home
We arrived at Deadhprse camp for 6, right on time for dinner! I was excited to show Anna where I lived but also a little nervous. Deadhorse camp is a work camp, it is not fancy by any means. There are no bathrooms in the rooms, the rooms need to be remodeled and my little trailor smelled damn and slightly moldy. It was home for me though, at least for the time being.
Anna was leaving the next day so we had a couple drinks together after and I told her all the gossip about my coworkers and the guys at camp. We had another early morning so we didn’t stay up too late.
Friday, August 4th
This was my last day with Anna, she would be heading back down to Fairbanks this afternoon and I would be back to work soon enough. We had the Arctic Ocean tour that morning, Anna had said she would swim but she chickened out and only stuck her feet in. It was a chilly morning though, definitely not ideal for swimming. However if that was my only opportunity you bet I would have gone in.
We headed to the little general store in town after to pick up some souvineers. I wanted to show Anna around a bit, seeing all of Deadhorse only takes about 20 minutes anyway haha.
It was bittersweet to say goodbye to her. It was nice having someone I knew around and it was good to catch up but I was ready to get back to my adventure in the arctic. My season was almost up anyway so I would see everyone soon enough!
This post is the last in my series, Alaskan Road Trip. If you haven’t read the first part about Seward you can find it here. Just missed the 2nd part about Denali? Check it out here!
